A fantastic article appeared in the New York Times yesterday on beer cellaring.
Here is the article.
It is quite well-written and entertaining besides.
I would have loved to have been in on that 36-year vertical tasting of Thomas Hardy's. Wow!
And, I've got a new dream: buy an old gold mine in Colorado and convert the mine shaft into a beer cellar. Double-wow.
26 June 2008
22 June 2008
Homebrewing and Home-cooking
I. The Silvius Leopold (Hefe) Weiss was unveiled at the Dillwyn Beer Festivus last month, but I thought it needed an official review here, since Sara and I have been almost exclusively drinking it over the past month (we're also finishing off the cellared Niel Gow Scots Ale from October). One thing this particular batch has revealed to me is the importance of mixing the priming sugar thoroughly before bottling: this batch has fallen prey to a very uneven carbonation rate from one bottle to the next, a flaw I can attribute to my adding the priming syrup to the top of the bottling bucket, rather than the bottom. The above photograph shows the best of the batch, while you can get a good example of another bottle's pour in the photo at the bottom of this post. I must say, it is a testament to the overall flavor profile of this brew that even the flat ones have been drinkable.
Appearance: Almost orange. Nice and cloudy. When it's present, the head is billowy and foamy white, and thins out fairly fast. 3.5
Aroma: Not strong enough for me. Malt and sugar predominate, with a faint banana and even fainter allspice trailing behind. 3
Taste: This is where it comes alive! Bananas and cloves throughout, with a mild hop backbone. There is the slightest hint of a metallic/mineral presence, undoubtedly a result of our hard tap water. 3.5
Palate: (when properly carbonated) spritzy, refreshing, and quenching. 4
Overall: The main problem, as stated above, is the inconsistency of the carbonation from one bottle to the next. When it's on, it's quite good, very good, if not quite great. 3
It is a champion with late spring/summery foods: see the review that follows. It's also a winner with tuna/pasta salad, which brings a not-unpleasant sulfurish edge to the flavor.
Plugging these numbers into the BeerAdvocate rating formula yields an overall rating score of 3.4 (B-). Suffice to say, I'm most assuredly stricter on my own brews than, say, Sara would be, but as the craftsman in question, I think that's only natural. I'm on a constant quest to tweak and perfect my creations. So, this B- reflects my opinion that this brew is not my favorite that I've made, but still quite good.
II. One of the tangential benefits of having a lot of homebrew around the house is its availability for use in the kitchen (yes, I do enjoy cooking with beer....occasionally I even put it in the food....yuk yuk yuk...)
Beer is a great addition to any number of recipes, from breads to reductions to glazes to stews. (See my earlier post about beer in bread)
Last week, I decided to try my hand at some grilled chicken, and, inspired by Michael Pollan, decided to brine the chicken breasts prior to grilling. Brining, essentially, means soaking the meat in a salt-water solution, much like a marinade. So what did I do, of course, but add some of the Silvius Leopold Hefe-Weiss in with the brine solution. It was a wonderful thing to do -- one of the great benefits of brining is that it keeps the chicken quite moist throughout the grilling process, so you don't end up with a dry bird on your plate. It also (somehow...hooray for salt...) reduces the cooking time needed.
The real genius, though, lay in my also creating a beer-based barbecue sauce for the breast, again with the hefe-weiss. The combination was divine.
The side dish, a springtime potato salad taken from Barbara Kingsolver's Animal, Vegetable, Miracle. contained no beer. What better food-beverage combination, though, than potato salad and German beer?
note the mostly flat beer in the glass. I'm providing rough outlines of the recipes here, but do note that they are only approximations, not exacts. (The spring potato salad recipe can be found at the link above -- it is simple and delicious!)
BEER BARBECUE SAUCE
1 C prepared barbecue sauce (I favor the local-made stuff, sans the evil High-Fructose Corn Syrup)
1/2 - 1 C ketchup (again, preferably without HFCS)
2/3 C Beer (the sky's the limit -- I used homebrew hefe-weiss)
1/4 C honey, molasses, or malt syrup (I used organic barley malt syrup)
2 T lemon juice
2 T red wine vinegar
2 T dijon mustard -- dark pub (beer!) mustard might be fun to try as well
1 T worcestershire sauce -- I left this out and it was not missed
1 t tabasco or other hot pepper sauce
1/2 t black pepper
Optional:
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 onion, finely chopped
(I was lazy so left both of these out)
Combine all ingredients in a large bowl. Place in a saucepan and cook over medium-low heat for about 10 minutes, until thickened. Will also work well as a heavy marinade (before heating).
GRILLED BRINED CHICKEN BREAST
1) Pound the cuts of chicken to an even thickness (about 1/2 inch thick, depending on size). This will help in an even and quicker cooking. It also breaks up the meat a little, allowing the brine to permeate better.
2) Prepare the brine: dissolve 1 1/2 T of unionized table salt (or 1/4 C kosher salt) and 1/4 C coarse sugar (I like demerara or turbinado) in 6 C cold water + 1 C ligher-style beer (I used hefe-weiss; Wit, IPA or ESB would be fun to try, too) + 1 C boiling water. (The boiling water helps dissolve the salt & sugar faster.) Make sure the brine solution is cool (room temperature) before adding the chicken. You can brine in a large bowl, a shallow covered baking dish, or a large ziplock bag, so long as the pieces of chicken are completely immersed in the liquid. Brine for at least 30 minutes, but don't overdo it -- for 2 or 4 breasts, no more than an hour or an hour and a half.
The sugar is great because it helps caramelize the surface of the chicken as it grills.
3) Have your grill (either outdoor or stovetop -- I used our excellent Lodge cast-iron two-eye stovetop grill pan) completely heated when the brining is done. Take the chicken directly from the brine to the grill -- don't pat dry or anything. Place the chicken on the hottest part of the heating surface. Try to turn it only once (if grilling outdoors, leave the lid off), and cook over direct heat. Don't overcook -- depending on the heat of your grill or grill pan, it might take as little as 4 minutes (remember that brining speeds up the cooking time; you just want to make sure that it is cooked through and not pink anywhere).
11 June 2008
Beer and Food (NOT Coors and Peanuts) on Network TV!
The times they are a' changing, and anyone who wonders otherwise (cerevisially, anyway), should check out NBC at 10:00 tomorrow (Thursday, 12 June), which will feature an interview with Dogfish Head mastermind Sam Calagione and his business cohort, Marnie Old. Here's a good preview article via Todd Alstrom on BeerAdvocate. Please overlook the sophomoric misuse of its/it's. I am curious to check out the book they'll be discussing (He Said Beer, She Said Wine, pictured above).
06 June 2008
In honor of One Year...
Perm's Brew Picks' one-year anniversary came and went last week, but appropriately enough, we were out of town on a (partially) beer-related field trip.
That's right, kids, it's time to report back on the
That's right, kids, it's time to report back on the
Fourth Annual Dillwyn Beer Festivus!
After last year's deluge of brews, we decided to rein in a bit and tone the selections back to a manageable number, and also broke the tastings into two sessions. Here are Perm's notes:
Appearance: 4.5 Aroma: 4 Taste: 4 Palate/Feel: 4.5 Overall drinkability: 4.5
This one is very nice!! The appearance is caramel bronze, a bit reddish, with a nice thin head.
The aroma is smoky, with notes of caramel, mild hops, and black pepper. The taste is nicely herbal, sweet (not too sweet!) and smoky. On the palate, VERY smooth with a pleasant crispness.
Overall, this is truly excellent. Perfect with an array of foods (had ours with venison and chicken soft tacos) but this one also would be great for easy-sipping summer evenings.
I'm not terribly familiar with the altbier style, but if they're all as good as this beer then I need to investigate much more thoroughly!
Appearance: Cloudy tan-yellow, with a poofy white head. 3.5
Aroma: Pretty standard -- banana, clove, cane sugar. 3.5
Taste: banana, clove, with a bit of sulfur and sweetness and something that is almost (for lack of a better word) fishy. James River water? 3
Palate: not bad, but a bit thin on the finish. 3
Overall: Not the best Legend brew, nor the best weizen, but it's really not bad. When I returned to it later in the evening, I had a more favorable impression of it. 3.5
Samuel Smith's Organic Ale 3.4 (B-)
I'm hoping that perhaps the bottle was a bit old. All in all, I was disappointed from a brewery I usually adore.
Appearance: golden-red, a bubbly head. Pretty. 4
Aroma: Basic. Malt and faint weak hops. The malt predominates. 3
Taste: Bitter and hoppy, but VERY subtle about those things. Minerally, with a slight pumpkin-spice thing. All in all, it tastes like malt extract to me! 3.5
Palate: sharp, spritzy, with a sweet finish. 3
Overall: It's not bad at all -- just rather boring, lacking a kick or some flair. Would be a good session-with-food beer when you want the food to be the star. 3
St. Cecilia Sir Charles IPA
See Sara's star review of this one in the previous entry. All in all, I'm quite pleased with how it turned out. When next I brew an IPA, I'm going to tweak the recipe to allow for a bit more hop presence. I might even try a mild dry-hopping just for fun...who knows?
Highland St. Teresa Pale Ale 4 (B+)
Appearance: 4 Aroma: 4 Taste: 3.7 Palate: 4 Overall: 4
A great session beer, and a great American Pale Ale, from a great brewery.
The aroma is invitingly full of hops and toast. Lots of hops (without being West-Coast overdone) on the tongue, with a snappy palate on the finish. It might be slightly on the thin side, but it truly is excellent. Try it with good fresh Indian curry dishes and you'll be glad you did.
Black Toad Dark Ale 4.1 (A-)
No expectations whatsoever going into this one...Black Toad is an unknown brewery to me!
Appearance: Dr. Pepper. Cherry Coke. 3.5
Aroma: A smorgasbord! Chocolate, malt, chestnuts, hazelnuts, Cocoa Puffs 4
Taste: Smoky and deep. Not as rich as the nose, but quite nice! 4.5
Palate: Silky and chewy 4
Overall: Very nice, very drinkable. I'm impressed with these Illini. 4
Kennebunkport Porter 4.25 (A-)
What a nice porter from an unheard of (to me) brewery in Maine (one of my favorite microbrewery states!).
Appearance: Almost pitch, at least in a basement lounge under fluorescent lamps. A slight scarlet red keeping the colour interesting. 4.5
Aroma: Amazingly exceptional -- coffee, hazelnut, Frangelico. 5
Taste: Rich! Almost keeps pace with the nose. Nutty, Frangelico-like; sweetish, dark cherry, a good hop twist, and a bit of Worcestershire near the end. 4
Palate: The weakest link. Almost oily. 3.5
Overall: I give this one high marks for being unexpected. I'm not sure if I'd ever be up for having more than one at a time, but it's creatively great! Bravo. 4
SESSION TWO
Weihenstephaner Hefe Weissbier 4.25 (A-)
Appearance: 4 Aroma: 4 Taste: 4.5 Palate: 4 Overall:4.5
God, I love this beer. There's a reason I based my first hefeweizen homebrew off of a clone recipe of this one. I can't say it's the greatest hefeweizen I've had, but it's a perennial winner in the all-around category for me.
The usual cloves and bananas are present, for sure, but its solid taste and well-balanced craftbeership must be given full marks for steady quality.
Sehr gut.
St. Cecilia Silvius Leopold (hefe) Weiss
So it's definitely not up to the Weihenstephaner as far as I'm concerned, but I'm pleased. Although I do have to say, it was somewhat miraculous that the two pint bottles that I took along for the tasting were perfectly carbonated. The first three I had upon returning home had not yet spritzed up!
St. Sylvestre 3 Monts Biere de Garde 4.65 (A+)
I have found a new favorite Biere de Garde, for sure!
Appearance: yellow with a white head. When I say yellow, I mean Miller-Lite-yellow. Mountain Dew yellow. Chamomile beer, really. 4
Aroma: Grass, hay, yeast (Flemish yeast! ahhhh), hops. Wonderful without overpowering 4.5
Taste: Spring water, clover, hay, candi sugar-sweetness, pears, boxwoods. Delectably intoxicating to the tastebuds. 5
Palate: Spritzy with a sour finish, leaving you craving for more. 5
Overall: A truly excellent craft farmhouse ale. 4.5
I've about decided to stop trying American craft "Farmhouse ales" because they simply can't compete with the real thing (exception: Hennepin and anything out of Quebec). This would be amazing with French cooking -- rabbit, quail, coq au vin, anything you'd serve with Champagne. I can't wait to buy a case and stick it in my cellar!
Big Boss Bad Penny Brown Ale 3.85 (B+)
Finally, a decent brew from Big Boss. I know it was largely only a name-change situation, but it seems to me that quality suffered QUITE a bit when Edenton Street became Big Boss. I long for the days of Horniblow's Ale. Sigh. This one, however, ain't half bad!
Appearance: like coffee with a head 4
Aroma: Coffee, nuts, dark chocolate, chicory 3.5
Taste: Coffee, toffee 4
Palate: Very smooth! Bravo! 4
Overall: A bit watery on the end (what I call the "American curse"), much like a cold Irish Coffee -- rather dark for a brown ale, almost a light porter. Nice work, really. 3.5
Petrus Gouden Tripel 4.65 (A+)
A nice subdued label with a jolly monastic and a slogan that says, "The key to Heaven." It was absolutely incredibly delicious.
Appearance: Gold in liquid form. A lovely Belgian head. 5
Aroma: Graham crackers, straw, apples, bananas 4.5
Taste: Citrus tartness. Solid and excellent. Leaves me craving more. 4.5
Palate: Refreshing. Quenching. Alcohol content is WELL hidden. 5
Overall: What can I say? Wonderful. Great with lemon coconut macaroons. Great with anything at anytime (not really, but I find this stuff incredibly satisfying.) 4.5
Unibroue Maudite 4.65 (A+)
Unibroue consistently brews a high-quality product. And by high, I mean Himalayan. Maudite for me is no exception, possibly even my current favourite of their year-round offerings.
Appearance: A cloudy copper-red. 4
Aroma: A bouquet of sugar, cloves, and dark cherries. 4.5
Taste: Wheat, perhaps something akin to a faint peanut brittle...I can't resist simply calling it, "ambrosia." 5
Palate: spritzy and quenching. As the Unibroue people describe it themselves, a cognac-like finish. 5
Overall: What a brew! This one is great all by itself. Also try it with hearty foods that otherwise might get the chianti or merlot treatments: pasta, tomato-based dishes, red meat (beef stew!), or artisanal pizza. A clear winner all-around. 4.5
Lagunitas Lucky 13 4 (B+)
Interestingly good. (Or goodly interesting?)
Appearance: Like a dark bourbon with head 4
Aroma: Hops (Cascade? Mt. Hood?), bitter tobacco 4
Taste: Earthy! hops, leather, tobacco, strong alcohol notes -- almost whisky-like. 4
Palate: Nice and spritzy. 4
Overall: Don't know if I'd commit to buying a 4-or 6-pack of this, but I would definitely revisit it, given the opportunity. Nice. 4
Stone Smoked Porter 3.3 (B-)
As Stone is as of yet unavailable in my state (NC), I must continue to seek it out when visiting friends abroad (VA). As this particular offering I found to be averagish-good, I'm not sorely lamenting its absence at my LBS...yet it was still worth trying to be sure.
Appearance: Coca-cola, pure and simple 3.5
Aroma: Weak smoke permeates all else. 3
Taste: Smoky porter! An American take on an English style mixed with Rauchbier. 3.5
Palate: Average 3
Overall, it's a one-trick pony, not especially smoky (but then again I love Rauchbier). 3
I kinda dig it -- one caveat, though, if you're not into the smoky beer thing, don't bother with this one!
New Holland "The Poet" Oatmeal Stout 4.4 (A)
This was the surprise of the night for me -- VERY well brewed! This one inspires me to seek out New Holland more thoroughly.
Appearance: Black, black, black. Imposing in the glass. 4
Aroma: Oatmeal, for sure. Sweet and malty with a fine balance between the two. 4.5
Taste: Nice! Chocolate predominates, with a nice slight-hop presence. I take another sip. And another... 4.5
Palate: Smooth and spritzy, just the way I like it. 4.5
Overall: This is an excellent stout! Bravo, good friends at New Holland. Here's one to revisit time and again. I'd love this with vanilla ice cream, or scallops for that matter. Or with my favorite movie. 4.5
Duck-Rabbit Barleywine 4.75 (A+)
Of course Barleywine belongs at the end of a progressive tasting, due to its strong and heady nature. But, that's a shame in some ways, because if the tasting waxes long, you just won't have the patience or the palate to truly appreciate the work of art that a fine barleywine can be. And the Duck-Rabbit is high art, for sure. This one is a real treat. The Duck-Rabbit folks consistently brew top-of-the-line products. I can only surmise that living and working in Farmville, NC inspires the brewers to spend long, long hours at their work indoors (where it is presumably air conditioned and has more interesting landscapes..).
Appearance: Russet-copper color. Mahogany, really. And as one would expect, no appreciable head to speak of. 4.5
Aroma: A real treasure-trove here: leather, tobacco, hops, cloves, allspice, and even a hint of oregano. 5
Taste: Banana, clove, caramel, allspice, grapes, brown sugar, and hops. Oy vey pass me another snifter! 5
Palate: A dry and warming finish. 4
Overall: Well-rounded for sure. This is one to cellar in bulk! 4.5
Drinking this makes me long for winter -- seated in front of a roaring fire with my D-R Barleywine in one hand and a nice cavendish pipe in the other. Wearing a wool waistcoat, to be sure.
PRE-SESSION (aka Lunch)
French Broad Altbier (growler) 4.2 (A-)Appearance: 4.5 Aroma: 4 Taste: 4 Palate/Feel: 4.5 Overall drinkability: 4.5
This one is very nice!! The appearance is caramel bronze, a bit reddish, with a nice thin head.
The aroma is smoky, with notes of caramel, mild hops, and black pepper. The taste is nicely herbal, sweet (not too sweet!) and smoky. On the palate, VERY smooth with a pleasant crispness.
Overall, this is truly excellent. Perfect with an array of foods (had ours with venison and chicken soft tacos) but this one also would be great for easy-sipping summer evenings.
I'm not terribly familiar with the altbier style, but if they're all as good as this beer then I need to investigate much more thoroughly!
SESSION ONE
Legend Hefeweizen 3.25 (C+)Appearance: Cloudy tan-yellow, with a poofy white head. 3.5
Aroma: Pretty standard -- banana, clove, cane sugar. 3.5
Taste: banana, clove, with a bit of sulfur and sweetness and something that is almost (for lack of a better word) fishy. James River water? 3
Palate: not bad, but a bit thin on the finish. 3
Overall: Not the best Legend brew, nor the best weizen, but it's really not bad. When I returned to it later in the evening, I had a more favorable impression of it. 3.5
Samuel Smith's Organic Ale 3.4 (B-)
I'm hoping that perhaps the bottle was a bit old. All in all, I was disappointed from a brewery I usually adore.
Appearance: golden-red, a bubbly head. Pretty. 4
Aroma: Basic. Malt and faint weak hops. The malt predominates. 3
Taste: Bitter and hoppy, but VERY subtle about those things. Minerally, with a slight pumpkin-spice thing. All in all, it tastes like malt extract to me! 3.5
Palate: sharp, spritzy, with a sweet finish. 3
Overall: It's not bad at all -- just rather boring, lacking a kick or some flair. Would be a good session-with-food beer when you want the food to be the star. 3
St. Cecilia Sir Charles IPA
See Sara's star review of this one in the previous entry. All in all, I'm quite pleased with how it turned out. When next I brew an IPA, I'm going to tweak the recipe to allow for a bit more hop presence. I might even try a mild dry-hopping just for fun...who knows?
Highland St. Teresa Pale Ale 4 (B+)
Appearance: 4 Aroma: 4 Taste: 3.7 Palate: 4 Overall: 4
A great session beer, and a great American Pale Ale, from a great brewery.
The aroma is invitingly full of hops and toast. Lots of hops (without being West-Coast overdone) on the tongue, with a snappy palate on the finish. It might be slightly on the thin side, but it truly is excellent. Try it with good fresh Indian curry dishes and you'll be glad you did.
Black Toad Dark Ale 4.1 (A-)
No expectations whatsoever going into this one...Black Toad is an unknown brewery to me!
Appearance: Dr. Pepper. Cherry Coke. 3.5
Aroma: A smorgasbord! Chocolate, malt, chestnuts, hazelnuts, Cocoa Puffs 4
Taste: Smoky and deep. Not as rich as the nose, but quite nice! 4.5
Palate: Silky and chewy 4
Overall: Very nice, very drinkable. I'm impressed with these Illini. 4
Kennebunkport Porter 4.25 (A-)
What a nice porter from an unheard of (to me) brewery in Maine (one of my favorite microbrewery states!).
Appearance: Almost pitch, at least in a basement lounge under fluorescent lamps. A slight scarlet red keeping the colour interesting. 4.5
Aroma: Amazingly exceptional -- coffee, hazelnut, Frangelico. 5
Taste: Rich! Almost keeps pace with the nose. Nutty, Frangelico-like; sweetish, dark cherry, a good hop twist, and a bit of Worcestershire near the end. 4
Palate: The weakest link. Almost oily. 3.5
Overall: I give this one high marks for being unexpected. I'm not sure if I'd ever be up for having more than one at a time, but it's creatively great! Bravo. 4
SESSION TWO
Weihenstephaner Hefe Weissbier 4.25 (A-)
Appearance: 4 Aroma: 4 Taste: 4.5 Palate: 4 Overall:4.5
God, I love this beer. There's a reason I based my first hefeweizen homebrew off of a clone recipe of this one. I can't say it's the greatest hefeweizen I've had, but it's a perennial winner in the all-around category for me.
The usual cloves and bananas are present, for sure, but its solid taste and well-balanced craftbeership must be given full marks for steady quality.
Sehr gut.
St. Cecilia Silvius Leopold (hefe) Weiss
So it's definitely not up to the Weihenstephaner as far as I'm concerned, but I'm pleased. Although I do have to say, it was somewhat miraculous that the two pint bottles that I took along for the tasting were perfectly carbonated. The first three I had upon returning home had not yet spritzed up!
St. Sylvestre 3 Monts Biere de Garde 4.65 (A+)
I have found a new favorite Biere de Garde, for sure!
Appearance: yellow with a white head. When I say yellow, I mean Miller-Lite-yellow. Mountain Dew yellow. Chamomile beer, really. 4
Aroma: Grass, hay, yeast (Flemish yeast! ahhhh), hops. Wonderful without overpowering 4.5
Taste: Spring water, clover, hay, candi sugar-sweetness, pears, boxwoods. Delectably intoxicating to the tastebuds. 5
Palate: Spritzy with a sour finish, leaving you craving for more. 5
Overall: A truly excellent craft farmhouse ale. 4.5
I've about decided to stop trying American craft "Farmhouse ales" because they simply can't compete with the real thing (exception: Hennepin and anything out of Quebec). This would be amazing with French cooking -- rabbit, quail, coq au vin, anything you'd serve with Champagne. I can't wait to buy a case and stick it in my cellar!
Big Boss Bad Penny Brown Ale 3.85 (B+)
Finally, a decent brew from Big Boss. I know it was largely only a name-change situation, but it seems to me that quality suffered QUITE a bit when Edenton Street became Big Boss. I long for the days of Horniblow's Ale. Sigh. This one, however, ain't half bad!
Appearance: like coffee with a head 4
Aroma: Coffee, nuts, dark chocolate, chicory 3.5
Taste: Coffee, toffee 4
Palate: Very smooth! Bravo! 4
Overall: A bit watery on the end (what I call the "American curse"), much like a cold Irish Coffee -- rather dark for a brown ale, almost a light porter. Nice work, really. 3.5
Petrus Gouden Tripel 4.65 (A+)
A nice subdued label with a jolly monastic and a slogan that says, "The key to Heaven." It was absolutely incredibly delicious.
Appearance: Gold in liquid form. A lovely Belgian head. 5
Aroma: Graham crackers, straw, apples, bananas 4.5
Taste: Citrus tartness. Solid and excellent. Leaves me craving more. 4.5
Palate: Refreshing. Quenching. Alcohol content is WELL hidden. 5
Overall: What can I say? Wonderful. Great with lemon coconut macaroons. Great with anything at anytime (not really, but I find this stuff incredibly satisfying.) 4.5
Unibroue Maudite 4.65 (A+)
Unibroue consistently brews a high-quality product. And by high, I mean Himalayan. Maudite for me is no exception, possibly even my current favourite of their year-round offerings.
Appearance: A cloudy copper-red. 4
Aroma: A bouquet of sugar, cloves, and dark cherries. 4.5
Taste: Wheat, perhaps something akin to a faint peanut brittle...I can't resist simply calling it, "ambrosia." 5
Palate: spritzy and quenching. As the Unibroue people describe it themselves, a cognac-like finish. 5
Overall: What a brew! This one is great all by itself. Also try it with hearty foods that otherwise might get the chianti or merlot treatments: pasta, tomato-based dishes, red meat (beef stew!), or artisanal pizza. A clear winner all-around. 4.5
Lagunitas Lucky 13 4 (B+)
Interestingly good. (Or goodly interesting?)
Appearance: Like a dark bourbon with head 4
Aroma: Hops (Cascade? Mt. Hood?), bitter tobacco 4
Taste: Earthy! hops, leather, tobacco, strong alcohol notes -- almost whisky-like. 4
Palate: Nice and spritzy. 4
Overall: Don't know if I'd commit to buying a 4-or 6-pack of this, but I would definitely revisit it, given the opportunity. Nice. 4
Stone Smoked Porter 3.3 (B-)
As Stone is as of yet unavailable in my state (NC), I must continue to seek it out when visiting friends abroad (VA). As this particular offering I found to be averagish-good, I'm not sorely lamenting its absence at my LBS...yet it was still worth trying to be sure.
Appearance: Coca-cola, pure and simple 3.5
Aroma: Weak smoke permeates all else. 3
Taste: Smoky porter! An American take on an English style mixed with Rauchbier. 3.5
Palate: Average 3
Overall, it's a one-trick pony, not especially smoky (but then again I love Rauchbier). 3
I kinda dig it -- one caveat, though, if you're not into the smoky beer thing, don't bother with this one!
New Holland "The Poet" Oatmeal Stout 4.4 (A)
This was the surprise of the night for me -- VERY well brewed! This one inspires me to seek out New Holland more thoroughly.
Appearance: Black, black, black. Imposing in the glass. 4
Aroma: Oatmeal, for sure. Sweet and malty with a fine balance between the two. 4.5
Taste: Nice! Chocolate predominates, with a nice slight-hop presence. I take another sip. And another... 4.5
Palate: Smooth and spritzy, just the way I like it. 4.5
Overall: This is an excellent stout! Bravo, good friends at New Holland. Here's one to revisit time and again. I'd love this with vanilla ice cream, or scallops for that matter. Or with my favorite movie. 4.5
Duck-Rabbit Barleywine 4.75 (A+)
Of course Barleywine belongs at the end of a progressive tasting, due to its strong and heady nature. But, that's a shame in some ways, because if the tasting waxes long, you just won't have the patience or the palate to truly appreciate the work of art that a fine barleywine can be. And the Duck-Rabbit is high art, for sure. This one is a real treat. The Duck-Rabbit folks consistently brew top-of-the-line products. I can only surmise that living and working in Farmville, NC inspires the brewers to spend long, long hours at their work indoors (where it is presumably air conditioned and has more interesting landscapes..).
Appearance: Russet-copper color. Mahogany, really. And as one would expect, no appreciable head to speak of. 4.5
Aroma: A real treasure-trove here: leather, tobacco, hops, cloves, allspice, and even a hint of oregano. 5
Taste: Banana, clove, caramel, allspice, grapes, brown sugar, and hops. Oy vey pass me another snifter! 5
Palate: A dry and warming finish. 4
Overall: Well-rounded for sure. This is one to cellar in bulk! 4.5
Drinking this makes me long for winter -- seated in front of a roaring fire with my D-R Barleywine in one hand and a nice cavendish pipe in the other. Wearing a wool waistcoat, to be sure.
04 June 2008
June review by Mrs. Perm
Mark has been bugging me for WEEKS now about posting a review of the St. Cecilia IPA. SO. Annoying. He will NOT let this one go, and honestly, I have taken my time because I want to be very intentional about what I say about this fine, fine brew.
In short: I adore it.
When your husband is a home-brewer, you have to be careful about how you critique the result of hours of patience, fine tuning, and love that goes into every pint. I have a few thoughts to share - but not in the style of: "Nose, hmmm, it's a mild bouquet of sandalwood, cloves and bananas... I give it a 4.725." No. No. No. I feel there is a time and a place for these types of beer reviews, but Mark's IPA implores for a reviewer to look beyond the five senses and peer deep into its very soul. This is a beer which speaks to you on a very nostalgic level - at least it does me. It hearkens back to a time when I was a student at App - and the time of year when the weather would change in the mountains. All of a sudden, the frosty mornings gave way to green tree leaves and cool breezes. It practically BEGGED you to skip class and have a barbecue on the apartment building's lawn. My friends and I would drink beer in Solo cups until dusk fell, lingering outside as long as possible. Everything we cooked tasted good, and the beer was a background for good times, laughing together, and beautiful spring weather.
This beer is like that. It is the perfect springtime brew. Here it is June (the effin' weather here is already switching to SUMMER) - and as I type, I am sipping on the very last bottle (other than the six we've cellared) and thinking back to simpler, happy times.
In short: I adore it.
When your husband is a home-brewer, you have to be careful about how you critique the result of hours of patience, fine tuning, and love that goes into every pint. I have a few thoughts to share - but not in the style of: "Nose, hmmm, it's a mild bouquet of sandalwood, cloves and bananas... I give it a 4.725." No. No. No. I feel there is a time and a place for these types of beer reviews, but Mark's IPA implores for a reviewer to look beyond the five senses and peer deep into its very soul. This is a beer which speaks to you on a very nostalgic level - at least it does me. It hearkens back to a time when I was a student at App - and the time of year when the weather would change in the mountains. All of a sudden, the frosty mornings gave way to green tree leaves and cool breezes. It practically BEGGED you to skip class and have a barbecue on the apartment building's lawn. My friends and I would drink beer in Solo cups until dusk fell, lingering outside as long as possible. Everything we cooked tasted good, and the beer was a background for good times, laughing together, and beautiful spring weather.
This beer is like that. It is the perfect springtime brew. Here it is June (the effin' weather here is already switching to SUMMER) - and as I type, I am sipping on the very last bottle (other than the six we've cellared) and thinking back to simpler, happy times.
27 May 2008
Perm's Brew Pick for May
Samuel Smith's Nut Brown Ale
No frills, no gimmicks, just a steady familiar brew this time around. It is probably worth noting that this is my second Pick involving the Samuel Smith Old Brewery, Tadcaster. (See January 2008 for the previous entry.)
For me, Sammy S's Nut Brown is a classic among classics. This is the stuff of which (English) legends are made. It is unassuming, the opposite of brash, reliable, trustworthy, good for the long haul, friendly, cheerful, and agreeable with an array of foods.
Essentially, this beer is akin to how the English would like to think of themselves as a people.
It definitely has that peculiar Yorkshire-water minerality -- which, as Garrett Oliver (and others) will tell you, is highly prized by the local beer aficionados. After all, the town of Tadcaster (whence it cometh) sits atop a limestone-rich water table. It's a bit weird, but I can see why it's prized. It lends a certain mineral-water refreshingness to the brew, to be sure, sort of a beer version of San Pellegrino.
In the glass, it bears a lovely copper-brown color with the trademark elusively-thin English head. The nose is slight, but the careful taster will be patient with it and be rewarded with rich caramel, roasted malt, hay, and subdued-yet-holding-their-own hops. On the tongue, the mineral quality shows up full force, along with a nice ale-style fruitiness (not too strong) and pleasant malt roundness. The palate is dry, crisp, and the paragon of refreshing. One could, even at 5% ABV, drink it all night.
With food, the Nut Brown is fairly catholic and generous: anything from a pork loin to roast beef to grilled chicken to cheddar cheese to mild curry to (what I had) trout dip on toasts.
It's also excellent all by itself.
26 May 2008
Back from Asheville
May 21-23 the Missus and I enjoyed our third wedding anniversary with a trip to our favorite local urban area, Asheville. As one might infer, beer was involved. Here are some of the cerevisial highlights:
I. The Bier Garden.
Excellent beer destination in Asheville! Right downtown, across from Malaprop's Bookstore.
Roomy -- if anything, it's TOO roomy, lending a certain reclaimed-retail-mall-space feel that one might not want in their watering hole of choice. However, the bar proper is cozy and just-slightly-Victorian-enough to be inviting, and there's no fear of bumping elbows and spilling your pint. Game room in the back, nice clean restrooms, and lots of European football (the one with the round ball) on the telly.
The bartender was one of the most friendly, engaging, energetic I've seen recently. Bravo. The selection -- well, it's the (technically) widest tap-and-bottle selection in town. What's to complain about? We were also there (who knew??) on "Irish night" -- special prices on Smithwicks and Guinness pints, as well as on Jamesons! Prices (even without the Irish specials) were, for the most part, quite reasonable. The high-gravities seemed a bit silly ($11 for a Chimay Blue? Give me a break!) but most of the standard session draughts and bottles where quite reasonably marked. And, for the record, fun glassware.
We didn't try the food, but the table next to us had some good-looking snacks on their plates.We're definitely going back, and definitely to try out the food menu next time.
I tried two brews at the Garden, which, ironically enough, weren't that stellar (but that wasn't the bar's fault -- although perhaps with the Pisgah it might have been). Sara fared much better: a ($2.50!!!) Smithwick's draught, and a Dogfish Head 90 Minute (also on draught!)
Here were my goes:
1. Pisgah Organic American Pale Ale (1 Litre pour)
First off, perhaps getting a litre-size was not the best idea. I was so impressed that the establishment offered the litre option for the taps (and at the prices!) that I felt like I couldn't pass up the opportunity. Just not sure if this was the best brew to go with.I also must say that I have been a fan of Pisgah brewing for some time. (link to earlier post) Organic or no, this particular offering is probably my least favorite of their array, however.
Appearance: Copper, cloudy, like a good craft APA should be. Inviting. (3.5/5)
Nose: What in the world!?! My least favourite part of the whole experience. Again, might have been the litre mug, might have been an off-tap, who knows? An off nose, at any rate: almost on the way to a "rancid" quality. To the point where in order to enjoy the taste (which I did) I had to close off my nose whilst sipping. (2/5)
Taste: Smooth and hoppy. All of Pisgah's brews must use the same yeast strain, because I recognized a certain Pisgah-y familiarity on the tongue. (3.5/5)
Palate: Snappy and crisp. Very APA-appropriate. (4/5)
Overall: I'm disappointed in a very good brewery for this one. Again, I might have had an off tap or an off glass. Drink it cold, is my advice. (3.2 -- C+)
2. Wittekerke
Appearance: What can I say? Yellow. Brightly so, like a Hoegaarden on steroids. Like perhaps the beer includes carotenoids. (3/5)
Aroma: At first blush, coriander, with a sweet grain-maltiness. At second blush, more of the same, with a nice shallow depth. (4/5)
Taste: OK. Classic wit, nothing spectacular, but nothing off either. (3/5)
Palate/Mouthfeel: A bit on the sticky side but amply refreshing. (4/5)
Overall: Not my favorite witbier, but it will definitely suit the bill if you're looking for a wit to drink and it happens to be what they have. All in all, somewhat plain. Interesting that the "kerke" in question on their label/tap handle is a plain white clapboard frame thing, because that's the overall effect of the beverage: plain, unassuming, mainline-protestant-style witbier. No stone bell towers or fancy stained glass with this one. (3.35 -- B-)
II. Old Europe Bistro
A nice outdoor patio right in old downtown. I had seafood chowder and an order of local-caught trout dip on toast; she had an amazing salmon dish with the same soup. Really nice place; I'm eager to go back and try the lunch menu.Not a huge beer list, but:
a) Sara got Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and loved it! (There's a story here -- way back in the spring of '03, I persuaded her to get a pint while on a trip to NYC, saying, "you'll love it!" It did not go over well. Five years later, though, my now-hop-head wife is singing another tune. So, in the [very] long run, I was right. She did love it. It just took a while.)
b) I had a Samuel Smith's Nut Brown Ale (see separate review forthwith).
III. French Broad tasting at the Brewery
This was a throwback to our first anniversary (also spent in Asheville). "Support Your Local Brewery" is a common bumper-sticker and t-shirt logo these days. Well, with French Broad up the road, it's fairly easy -- and enjoyable -- to do so. And with offerings such as their Irish Stout, how could I not support them full-force? Pints, half-pints, and growlers available right there in the brewery tasting room, where they also feature live music more often than not. The only caveat, the tasting room closes at 8pm on weeknights.
About that Irish Stout...
First off, it's no Guinness. At 5.8% ABV, don't try to put this one back as if it were. You'll be sorry. In a good way? Perhaps. If you don't have to drive, any way.
Appearance:Dark, dark dark. Like a black steer's tuckuss on a moonless Prairie night. There was no bottom. (Well, unfortunately, there WAS a bottom to my glass). (4.5/5)
The nose is rich, hoppy, floral, inviting. Luring me in for the kill... (4.5/5)
Taste: A lovely roasted malt pervasiveness leads me along to an almost chicory presence that I find absolutely divine. O for a blackened catfish, or wood-roasted scallops, or charred Argentine steak! The pairing would be seamless. (4.5/5)
Palate:It finishes silky and smooth all the way down, if sitting somewhat heavily on the bottom (but then again, this was an after-dinner beer for me, perhaps not the best situation). (4.5/5)
Overall: Bravo and bravo again! (4.4 -- A)
IV. Lunch buffet at Mela Indian Restaurant
Well, this is a personal favorite repeat spot for us. The discovery this time around was simply this: drink Highland St. Teresa's Pale Ale with spicy Indian curry!!!
24 May 2008
The Thirsty Monk...again
Yes, I did review the Monk in the entry "Mid-May Notes." At the risk of redundancy, here's a second jab at a review with aspirations for as little overlap as I can muster...but, after all, such a place as this must surely deserve extra attention. More to the point, I wanted to review the brews I had whilst visiting the Monk, so found a recapturing of the ambiance helpful in that regard...
First of all, I have to give this place very high marks simply for the fact that it exists. In Asheville, no less. Very commendable, very impressive -- I'm overjoyed to have such a specialty place so close by in our little corner of the world. The decor is great. The place is impossibly clean (hooray!) and minimalistically decorated the way I wish my basement looked. I like the ambiance a lot. The selection is incredible. I thought this sort of place only existed in my wild fantasies. Or in Belgium. Apparently, there are enough other beer fetishists out there -- again, in Western NC -- to warrant the creation of such an establishment. 14 rotating taps of the finest Belgian and Belgian-style offerings. Hundreds of bottles, 750 mL and smaller sizes, to more than round out the discriminating palate. My slight disappointment was that a couple of the menu items listed (and tap heads that I saw right in front of me) were not available that particular night. Too bad! However, there was plenty else to choose from.
As I stated in my earlier review, my larger disappointment was with the food selection -- talk about skimpy! True, they do not have an in-house kitchen that I could discern. As it now stands, go for the beer -- definitely! Eat before you go. But try that cheese platter with some tripel. It will be fantastic.
Sampled at the Monk, via the flight option (smaller-sized servings at a lower price, their answer to the Half Pint. Lest you fret unduly, though, rest assured that the flight sizes are quite generous. No 3-ounce nonsense here):
1) North Coast Brother Thelonious (Dubbel, 9.0% ABV)
Ironic that my least-favorite during a night of Belgian-styles was the non-native-Belgian? Probably not. North Coast, on the whole, does amazing work. Old Stock Ale, Old Rasputin...This one, though, while good, couldn't hold much of a 4-foot liturgical taper to some of its Old-World brethren.
Appearance: Dr. Pepper. (3.5/5)
Aroma: STRONG!!! Caramel, dates, raisins (4/5)
Taste: Again, raisins. Apricots, figs, dates, sorghum. (4/5)
Palate: My least favorite aspect of this beer. It's too thin, and disintegrates too soon. Almost watery for something so strong. (3/5)
Overall: Good, sweet, and strong, but too sweet, too rich. Drink this one in small quantities. Perfect match with a cardamom chocolate, though. (3.75 -- B)
2) Dupont Biere de Miel Biologique (Organic Saison with Honey, 8% ABV)
God, this is good stuff. Where has it been hiding all my beer-drinking life? I must say, in the interest of full journalistic disclosure, that my fair wife did not care for this beer. Me, I thought it was the best stuff I'd had since Easter.
Appearance: Looks suspiciously like mead. (4/5)
Aroma: Wildflowers, honey, and malt. (4.5/5)
Taste: Hominy, and non-sweet honey. (5/5)
Palate: PERFECT! Smooth with a bit of spritz. (5/5)
Overall: Quite refreshing and thirst-quenching. The fact that it's 8% ABV is WELL hidden. Saison-ish. The fact that it's a Dupont creation is not surprising given the high level of quality. The fact that it's organic makes me very happy. Amazing beer. More of this. Often. (4.65 -- A+)
3)Huyghe Delirium Nocturnum (Belgian Strong Dark Ale, 8.5% ABV)
Once I discovered how to appreciate and enjoy the Tremens (and oh, but I do), I've been itching to try their other offerings: the Noel, and this, the Nocturnum.
Appearance: Dark ruby red, with a thick head. Enticing if a bit intimidating. (5/5)
Aroma: Sour cherry, brown sugar, faint mild hops. (4/5)
Taste: A carnival ride: sour water, raisins, cherry pits, white pepper, pears, a bitter hop finish. (3.5/5)
Palate: Perfect, really. (5/5)
Overall: Not quite as good as Tremens in my book, but still very solid! Great with chocolate. (4.1 -- A-)
4) Liefmans Kriekbier (Cherry fruited lambic ale. 6% ABV)
First Off: The best Fruited Lambic I've ever had, bar none. One of the best Lambics I've had, period, fruited or otherwise. Wow. They use real cherries, unlike some other kriek brewers. Also: this technically wasn't one of my flight choices, but instead my flight buddy's. I wish it were mine. I willed it to be so. This is crazy stuff.
Appearance: Reddish-purple, with a pink head. Dark, mysterious, and enticing. (4.5/5)
Aroma: Cherry pits, slightly sour with a sweet-tart edge. It's inviting me to pour it down my gullet, but my nose is so entranced that I just want to sniff it all night. (5/5)
Taste: A fruity smorgasbord, but not fruity in the way that sorority spring breaks are fruity -- this is a mature, decadent (yes), refined, high-class fruity. strawberry, raspberry, and (yes) fine cherry notes, along with (if there is such a thing!) gourmet bubble gum and sweet tarts, although the name of this game is "not too sweet!" A sour brett. yeast taste rounds it off. (4.5/5)
Palate: Perfect. A study in nuance and style. (5/5)
Overall: Amazing, really. Again, the best fruited lambic I've ever had. More, please!! (4.65 -- A+)
23 May 2008
Papa's got a brand new brew!
What began back in Goochland County VA as the Bathtub Brewery has gone through many iterations, produced much to be proud of and a few over which we still hang our head in shame. Halcyon days, friends, full of wonder, extremes of temperature and plenteous brew. Having shared many partners (but never owing money all around town) in this endeavor, I have resurrected eight years of fine brewing tradition in the northernmost corner of the Shenandoah Valley. Our brewery, as our beer, is as yet unnamed but big plans are in the works including kegs, taps and occasional cross-border trips with trunks full of contraband and ringers - with weight - at the ready.
To wit, some pictures, our recipe and a call for creative nomenclature (both beer and brewery)
Ingredients (3 Gallon batch)
To wit, some pictures, our recipe and a call for creative nomenclature (both beer and brewery)
Ingredients (3 Gallon batch)
3.75 lbs Coopers Wheat Malt Extract
1/2 lb Crystal Malt
1/2 lb Pilsen Malt
2 oz. US Saaz Hops (boil), 2 tsp Grains of Paradise (1 boil, 1 finishing)
1 packet Nottingham Ale Yeast (pictured above), 3 Gal. Water
Saturday, May 17
Proceedings
Steep Crystal/Pilsen malt in 2 gal. water, bringing to a slow boil
Remove grains at boil and add Malt Extract, 2 oz US Saaz Hops, 1 tsp Grains of Paradise
Boil 60 minutes
Remove hops, boil 10 minutes
Add 1 tsp Grains of Paradise
Boil 5 minutes, remove grains
Cool Wort
Add to Carboy, top off with cold water.
Pitch yeast.
Wait.
Sunday, May 18
Enjoy the sweet aroma and delightful experience of happily bubble wort, soon to be beer.
Updates forthcoming after bottling.
Cheers!
1/2 lb Pilsen Malt
2 oz. US Saaz Hops (boil), 2 tsp Grains of Paradise (1 boil, 1 finishing)
1 packet Nottingham Ale Yeast (pictured above), 3 Gal. Water
Saturday, May 17
Proceedings
Steep Crystal/Pilsen malt in 2 gal. water, bringing to a slow boil
Remove grains at boil and add Malt Extract, 2 oz US Saaz Hops, 1 tsp Grains of Paradise
Boil 60 minutes
Remove hops, boil 10 minutes
Add 1 tsp Grains of Paradise
Boil 5 minutes, remove grains
Cool Wort
Add to Carboy, top off with cold water.
Pitch yeast.
Wait.
Sunday, May 18
Enjoy the sweet aroma and delightful experience of happily bubble wort, soon to be beer.
Updates forthcoming after bottling.
Cheers!
19 May 2008
Two Christmas presents, Part II
Cumberland Pale AleAnother beer whose head got the best of me: it was huge, thick, and stubborn. My pouring, I will admit however, was perhaps overly casual. Fucking amateurs.
The BarrelHouse Brewing Company of Cincinnati, which started out in 1995 as a brewpub and has grown into a regional microbrewery of high repute with a cleverly-named line, has this to say about the beer:
Early Cincinnati brewers shipping their beers into Tennessee would generously hop their beer to prevent spoilage during the long arduous trip over the Cumberland Trail. This classic interpretation of the American Pale Ale features a solid foundation of pale malt loaded with fresh Cascade hops. Here's to getting where you're going!
I like any brewery that believes beer is necessary to getting where you're going. Where are my car keys? And hand me my beer! A very Dude attitude.
The Cumberland is pretty standard APA. Beneath all of that head is a clear copper and a promising nose more suggestive of good malt than powerful hops.
Indeed the suggestions of the nose are borne out, or rather further developed, by the mouth: the Cumberland is not as hop-dominated as the label suggests. It's not bad, just a smoother and less potent exposition of the form than many of its peers. Very clean in the mouth, with a very brief aftertaste of malty sweetness. Notes of orange and grain.
Overall, a very drinkable, if not overwhelmingly exciting beer. 4.6% ABV.
17 May 2008
Very briefly...
This was simply too good to pass up.
What we can surmise:
1) Times is hard in Montgomery.
2) The beer scene is NOT good in Alabama.
3) If you're walking down the street with a 12-pack of Bud Light in your possession, you just might get shot.
What we can suggest:
If someone approaches you and demands you yield your Bud Light, consider it a fortuitous and profitable occasion. Don't wait for the firearm.
What we can surmise:
1) Times is hard in Montgomery.
2) The beer scene is NOT good in Alabama.
3) If you're walking down the street with a 12-pack of Bud Light in your possession, you just might get shot.
What we can suggest:
If someone approaches you and demands you yield your Bud Light, consider it a fortuitous and profitable occasion. Don't wait for the firearm.
13 May 2008
The Moon Under Water
When I think George Orwell, a few things pop into my mind at first blush:
* Barnyard Animals and their political schemes.
* 1984
* The current socio-political landscape
From henceforth, however, I'll have to add a fourth asterisk to that list: The Moon Under Water.
The MUW is the name of both a brief essay by Orwell, and of the pub that said essay describes in loving detail. It is a pleasant essay full of love, nostalgia, even a hint of wistfulness. It premiered in the London Evening Standard on 9 February, 1946.
Here is the essay for your reading enjoyment. I suggest a pint in hand for the reading.
12 May 2008
Two Christmas presents, Part I
Wailing WenchFor Christmas, I received two large bottles, which have languished in my cellar, all but forgotten. However, with spring has come the time to test them appropriately, to give them their due.
First to be sampled and savored is the Wailing Wench ale, an offering from the Middle Ages Brewing Co., Ltd., in Syracuse, NY, which must be the seedier cousin to the St. Cecilia Brewery of Tryon, NC. Both take their inspiration from earlier times, but in the stead of John Dowland or Charles Parry, Middle Ages gives us the Wailing Wench. As befits any reference to Merrie England, the label is bawdy and in very poor taste. Wonderful woman. We're all very fond of her. Very free-spirited.
The beer does not disappoint; it is very tasty. A dark, cloudy copper in color, with only a moderate head, the Wailing Wench provides abundant hops to the palate (as is promised – with much innuendo that would please any contemporary or admirer of the Middle Ages – on the label: "Screaming with hops"), and a mild, pleasant aftertaste. And, weighing in at 8% ABV, it packs almost all the necessary ingredients for a good time. Brandt can't watch though, or he has to pay a hundred.
Stay tuned for Part II.
06 May 2008
Mid-may notes
I. The hefeweizen has been, as of earlier today, moved into the secondary fermenter. All signs point to a winner: current gravity readings are spot-on, it's a lovely orange color, and it smells divinely weissenig: bananas and cloves out the wazoo. I can't wait.
II. The Sir Charles IPA is out and shining. It amazes me how the bottle-conditioning is like clockwork: sample a newbie even one day prior to go-time, and you'll be disappointed. A mere 24 hours later, and it's a different beverage entirely. I could set my calendars by the conditioning of homebrew.
I'm loving this IPA. Not as heady or hoppy as some, it nevertheless fits the bill and is quite tasty. Sara promises to write a review on the blog soon.
III. Slowly but steadily, I have entered into the next realm of the all-consuming beer hobby: the cellar. It may seem a bit counterintuitive to lay down (or, in the case of beer, "keep vertical") bottles of something that often include a "best by" date on the label, but rest assured there are any number of brews out there that not only stand up to cellar aging for months or even years, but also some that downright benefit from it. The most likely candidates are those with high alcohol content (7% ABV or higher), and those that are bottle-conditioned. However, certain stouts and porters, and even some fruit beers like lambics, also carry a penchant for the long haul. Much like wine, the keys are dark space, cool temperatures, and no movement. With our new living space's basement, I've alotted a corner across from our wine cellar (also nascent but hopeful) for some beer-cellaring experimentation. In the coming months, I'm hoping to be adding to it fairly regularly. And blogging about it as well.
A great inspiration: The Brew Basement.
IV. And speaking of (non-homebrew-ingredient) adjuncts, another fun aspect of the Beer Enthusia: glassware and stemware. Also, one thinks of wine and the myriad shapes and sizes and variations on "the bowl." Beer is coming into its own in this regard as well. Strike from your consciousness the frosted barrel-shaped mug. Think, instead, of something akin to this:
Of course, beer glasses come in many shapes and sizes: the familiar Guinness pint glass is the perfect receptacle for a good stout, or porter, or English-style ale. IPAs and English Ales also go great with those pint glasses that have the little bulge near the top. Those Oktoberfest tankard steins are perfect for a German lager. Hefeweizen goes best in a tall, elegant, curvy thing that looks a bit like something out of Star Wars. Stronger brews, abbey ales, and the like fare well in goblets and wine glasses. The Belgians go absolutely nuts, with individual breweries often having their own glassware -- some even that need separate stands just to hold them up. Why all the variation? Why all the fuss?Well, much in the way with wine glassware, each beer style benefits best from having certain characteristics front and center (emphasize the nose, push the hoppy bitterness to the forefront, create more head, admire the sparkling clarity, allow it to breathe, etc.). The various shapes and sizes accommodate all these various traits differently for the different beers, maximizing the experience. Sure, you can drink a hefeweizen out of a Guinness glass. I do it all the time. But for serious tasting and appreciating, there's no beating the weiss glass. Plus, they look impressive. Plus, it's downright fun.
My current favorite beer glass style, if not quite my favorite beer, is the pilsner. Here it is, in action:
What about drinking right from the bottle? There's no better way to enjoy a Rolling Rock.
V. Experts and pros in the worlds of both cellar beers and stemware: the Belgians. Speaking of the Belgians, Sara and I finally scoped out Asheville's The Thirsty Monk on Friday night.
Stupendous! It's a bit on the pricey side of the equation, but they have the option of flight-size samples of their (14!) draughts, enabling a wider sampling at a reasonable bill. This is the closest I've seen anywhere in this country to the "half-pint" option commonplace in British and Irish pubs. And, I should add, TM's flight sizes are hefty enough to be worth your while: no festival tasting 2 ounces here! Most of the beers are also served in their own specialized glasses.
The Thirsty Monk has only been open since late December, and is still auspiciously new: the first smell one is greeted by upon entry is "clean." The whole place is spotless and immaculate, as if a Trappist with vows of silence had just been through with his mop and dustcloth. No smoking to be had, either. It looks as if they're still in the process of filling in the decor, but nothing says "good vibes" to me like a Delirium Tremens mirror and a big Chimay flag.
Points against them: I was a bit taken aback to hear the strains of "the Electric Slide" emanating from their speaker system when we walked in. The playlist did move on to something a bit more tolerable -- Gladys Knight, I think. But nothing says fine Belgian ales to me like...Motown and cheesy bad wedding reception line dances. I'm not sure what I would offer as a counter-suggestion: Gregorian chant would certainly add to the ethos of the space, but certainly not to the intent or the hopeful mood of the patrons. Acoustic folky instrumentals (roots, Americana, even some rollicking European folk tunes) might fit the bill. I mean, it is Asheville after all.
The bigger regret is the food situation: not having a kitchen of their own, they have risen to something of a creative occasion by providing not only Euro-inspired treats, but also ones that pair well with Belgian ale styles. Cheese platters, chocolate samplers, and cold baguette sandwiches and crepe sandwiches. That's the whole line, and once again price seems a little steep. Granted, one probably doesn't seek out a Belgian beer bar for the food, but for a place that opens at 4:00pm, it's a bit skimpy. If they ever get a kitchen situation worked out, I'd love to see some moules (steamed mussels...ahhh.) and frites (with or without the mayonnaise!).
03 May 2008
The Next Homebrew...and the Next Chapter in Homebrewing
Yesterday, I started the next batch of St. Cecilia beer...a hefeweizen, timed to coincide with the arrival of summer in the Southern Appalachians. As I cannot resist a good pun, and have already titled my Dunkelweizen "Silvius Leopold WEISS (Dunkel)," it followed that the current batch would be called, again, Silvius Leopold WEISS (Hefe)."
And, because he's just that good (as is the current performer), here's another look -- or listen -- at the overlooked namesake genius:
Proof that beefy soccer jocks can also be incredibly sensitive interpreters of baroque music.
I also tried my hand at something new: rather than purchase a kit from Asheville Brewers Supply, complete with pre-selected ingredients and self-contained instruction sheet, I decided to delve into the wider world of recipes and ingredient purchase. The current batch is based on a "clone" recipe from a book I received for Christmas: Beer Captured by Tess and Mark Szamatulski. The source recipe is modeled on their interpretation of Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier, one of the benchmarks of the style. Largely for the sake of trying something new, and seeing how there was no imminent trip to Asheville in sight, I ordered the ingredients from Northern Brewer, letting the UPS guy burn petroleum instead of me (as many of the ingredients I used come from the same exact source as those provided by ABS). I have departed slightly from the recipe as published, in terms of the priming/carbonation method: rather than use more dry malt extract, per the book method, I'm going to once again use my tried-and-true turbinado sugar method.
My only wonderment is the sheer simplicity of the recipe:
6 pounds of (Briess) dry wheat malt extract
1 ounce of Hallertau Herrsbrucker hops, added at the beginning of the boil
boiled in 2.5 gallons of water for 60 minutes
Cooled, added to primary fermenter containing 3 gallons cold water, pitch 1 vial of White Labs Hefeweizen liquid yeast.
I'm hoping that the minimalism of this recipe results in a pure, clean, subtle brew that would prompt my good buddy J-Wor to quip, "simple tools," rather than in an insipid, boring, tastes-like-wallpaper brew. We shall see.
I am unsure as to the Original Gravity of this one. In my ongoing battle against the hydrometer, I did something silly. I ended up being in quite a hurry to get it all finished and in the fermenter, as time crept up on me and Sara and I had a Community Chorus show to get to. In my hurry, along with sloshing quite a bit of wort onto the floor (again, have I mentioned how glad I am to be brewing in the basement?), I did my hydrometer gravity test of the wort BEFORE diluting it with all of the water. So, the reading came out to something astronomical, 1.106, which would yield an estimated ABV in the realm of 11%. Eek! Once I realized my error, I pondered how to calculate the correct diluted reading, since readings can't be taken once the yeast has been pitched.
Enter the computer age! Apparently there are a few software programs available to the homebrewer, designed to help track, sort, store, calculate, and otherwise aid the homebrewing enthusiast. After a tip and some discussion on the BeerAdvocate forum, I set off into the wild woods of the internets in search of a potentially helpful download-friendly executable file.
There are quite a few programs from which the uninitiated may choose. Keeping my eyes peeled for the magical word "Free," I first examined a program called Q-Brew. Let me tell you, not worth the 2 minutes it took to download. Q-Brew resided on my desktop for about 20 minutes before being expunged. I finally decided on taking advantage of the 21-day free trial offer from Beersmith. This program comes highly regarded and is, at least thus far, very user-friendly and versatile. Most importantly for the situation at hand, it also has a dilution calculator!
Entering in the digits, I find a corrected OG reading in the range of 1.050-1.053, right where it should be. Thus, depending on the final gravity, I should be looking at a hefeweizen with an ABV of 5.2%. Perfect.
And speaking of the internets, I also stumbed across this little gem. Wikiality, indeed.
And no, I do NOT, and will NOT, drink my weissbier with lemon or orange wedges. Gross. If you must commit such a travesty, I recommend this approach:
And, because he's just that good (as is the current performer), here's another look -- or listen -- at the overlooked namesake genius:
Proof that beefy soccer jocks can also be incredibly sensitive interpreters of baroque music.
I also tried my hand at something new: rather than purchase a kit from Asheville Brewers Supply, complete with pre-selected ingredients and self-contained instruction sheet, I decided to delve into the wider world of recipes and ingredient purchase. The current batch is based on a "clone" recipe from a book I received for Christmas: Beer Captured by Tess and Mark Szamatulski. The source recipe is modeled on their interpretation of Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier, one of the benchmarks of the style. Largely for the sake of trying something new, and seeing how there was no imminent trip to Asheville in sight, I ordered the ingredients from Northern Brewer, letting the UPS guy burn petroleum instead of me (as many of the ingredients I used come from the same exact source as those provided by ABS). I have departed slightly from the recipe as published, in terms of the priming/carbonation method: rather than use more dry malt extract, per the book method, I'm going to once again use my tried-and-true turbinado sugar method.
My only wonderment is the sheer simplicity of the recipe:
6 pounds of (Briess) dry wheat malt extract
1 ounce of Hallertau Herrsbrucker hops, added at the beginning of the boil
boiled in 2.5 gallons of water for 60 minutes
Cooled, added to primary fermenter containing 3 gallons cold water, pitch 1 vial of White Labs Hefeweizen liquid yeast.
I'm hoping that the minimalism of this recipe results in a pure, clean, subtle brew that would prompt my good buddy J-Wor to quip, "simple tools," rather than in an insipid, boring, tastes-like-wallpaper brew. We shall see.
I am unsure as to the Original Gravity of this one. In my ongoing battle against the hydrometer, I did something silly. I ended up being in quite a hurry to get it all finished and in the fermenter, as time crept up on me and Sara and I had a Community Chorus show to get to. In my hurry, along with sloshing quite a bit of wort onto the floor (again, have I mentioned how glad I am to be brewing in the basement?), I did my hydrometer gravity test of the wort BEFORE diluting it with all of the water. So, the reading came out to something astronomical, 1.106, which would yield an estimated ABV in the realm of 11%. Eek! Once I realized my error, I pondered how to calculate the correct diluted reading, since readings can't be taken once the yeast has been pitched.
Enter the computer age! Apparently there are a few software programs available to the homebrewer, designed to help track, sort, store, calculate, and otherwise aid the homebrewing enthusiast. After a tip and some discussion on the BeerAdvocate forum, I set off into the wild woods of the internets in search of a potentially helpful download-friendly executable file.
There are quite a few programs from which the uninitiated may choose. Keeping my eyes peeled for the magical word "Free," I first examined a program called Q-Brew. Let me tell you, not worth the 2 minutes it took to download. Q-Brew resided on my desktop for about 20 minutes before being expunged. I finally decided on taking advantage of the 21-day free trial offer from Beersmith. This program comes highly regarded and is, at least thus far, very user-friendly and versatile. Most importantly for the situation at hand, it also has a dilution calculator!
Entering in the digits, I find a corrected OG reading in the range of 1.050-1.053, right where it should be. Thus, depending on the final gravity, I should be looking at a hefeweizen with an ABV of 5.2%. Perfect.
And speaking of the internets, I also stumbed across this little gem. Wikiality, indeed.
And no, I do NOT, and will NOT, drink my weissbier with lemon or orange wedges. Gross. If you must commit such a travesty, I recommend this approach:
27 April 2008
Searching for Beer in the Big City
Some fellows talk about New York,Imagine my delight when I yesterday stumbled upon a write up of BeerMenus.com, a site that indexes all the beers in all the gin joints of...um...New York City. My disappointment was mitigated, of course, by the long-held knowledge that here in the uppermost corner of the Shenandoah Valley both technology and fine brew arrive late to the party, if at all. And this is leaving at the door the small fact of being married to a Baptist minister, living at the frayed but still sturdy edge of our nations Bible Belt.
But I shall stay at home.
- Sarah Orne Jewett from "A Country Boy in Winter"
Still, our more cosmopolitan readers (see: New Yorkers) or those planning a trip to Gotham in the next few months will be well-advised to avail themselves of this fine tool. Search for your favorite ale, dubbel or imperial porter. Alternately, see what the cool kids are drinking, or browse the trendiest bars by neighborhood. And please don't try this in the Bronx, Staten Island or Queens where the safe bet is a Yeungling (at best) downed quickly and a subsequent quick metro hop to friendlier climes.
So when you're out there, be safe, obey all traffic signs and don't feed the hipsters. Happy drinking.
23 April 2008
The IPA label
Now we're passing into the inner corridors of Nerddom. But most of you were probably already aware of that.
Here's the IPA label, with what I trust carries the appropriate level of Victorian/Edwardian ethos, suitable for shipping to the Subcontinent:
She transferred into the secondary fermenter on Monday afternoon and looks to be bottled this weekend. I'm still not as handy (or confident) with the hydrometer as I'd like to be but as far as I can tell, everything points to an ABV in the ballpark of 5.something %. Also appropriate. I'm eagerly awaiting this one.
Parry, of course, being perhaps best known for his hymn-tune Jerusalem ("And did those feet in ancient times..." or, to familiars of The Hymnal 1982, "O day of peace that dimly shines..."), which should (also appropriately) stir the hearts of all Brittanophiles worthy of the title, especially upon this, St. George's Day.
My inner Scot cringes and scowls.
Here's the IPA label, with what I trust carries the appropriate level of Victorian/Edwardian ethos, suitable for shipping to the Subcontinent:
She transferred into the secondary fermenter on Monday afternoon and looks to be bottled this weekend. I'm still not as handy (or confident) with the hydrometer as I'd like to be but as far as I can tell, everything points to an ABV in the ballpark of 5.something %. Also appropriate. I'm eagerly awaiting this one.
Parry, of course, being perhaps best known for his hymn-tune Jerusalem ("And did those feet in ancient times..." or, to familiars of The Hymnal 1982, "O day of peace that dimly shines..."), which should (also appropriately) stir the hearts of all Brittanophiles worthy of the title, especially upon this, St. George's Day.
My inner Scot cringes and scowls.
A philosphy of Beer - and inaugural review
First, a philosphy of beer:
mmmmm...beer...
Ok, that's out of the way.
As for a first review I think it only appropriate to quote the Bard (I am, of course, talking about Bob Dylan). "You gotta have heart. You gotta have lots of things. You gotta have a waterproof hat, and a dog you can trust. You gotta have your girlfriend's credit card..."
I'm confident that Mr. Zimmerman would agree that you also gotta have a favorite pale ale. An ale that reminds you just why you fell in love with drinking good beer. An aroma that wakes your senses in the same way as the first morning pot of coffee; an initial flavor across your tongue like the spoonful of fruity pebbles into which you inconceivably (but fortuitously) dropped a handful of sourpatch kids. All the while a rock-solid baseline of malt and barley hold fast against the excess that leads to mere frivolity - a weatherbeaten, centuries-old upright bass accompanied by the jazz-fusion stick man who, today, respectfully restrains himself to the high hat and snare in a loving rendition of his favorite classic.
You gotta have lots of things. At the top of my list is a cold refreshing pint of Flying Dog's "Doggie Style" Classic American Pale Ale. Until next time, drink heartily and well.
mmmmm...beer...
Ok, that's out of the way.
As for a first review I think it only appropriate to quote the Bard (I am, of course, talking about Bob Dylan). "You gotta have heart. You gotta have lots of things. You gotta have a waterproof hat, and a dog you can trust. You gotta have your girlfriend's credit card..."
I'm confident that Mr. Zimmerman would agree that you also gotta have a favorite pale ale. An ale that reminds you just why you fell in love with drinking good beer. An aroma that wakes your senses in the same way as the first morning pot of coffee; an initial flavor across your tongue like the spoonful of fruity pebbles into which you inconceivably (but fortuitously) dropped a handful of sourpatch kids. All the while a rock-solid baseline of malt and barley hold fast against the excess that leads to mere frivolity - a weatherbeaten, centuries-old upright bass accompanied by the jazz-fusion stick man who, today, respectfully restrains himself to the high hat and snare in a loving rendition of his favorite classic.
You gotta have lots of things. At the top of my list is a cold refreshing pint of Flying Dog's "Doggie Style" Classic American Pale Ale. Until next time, drink heartily and well.
22 April 2008
Into the Deep End (an introduction)
I have long lurked in the back alleys of the Internet, skulking by this blog from time to time in order to fellowship transitively with fellow beer aficionados. Having been, many moons ago, extended an invitation to join the fray, I have heretofore chosen to remain in the shadows.
Well my friends, no longer. And thus, I feel an introduction is in order.
I have decided to write primarily out of my great and abiding affection for this blog's eponymous founder. I write also out of a sense of duty, our histories of beer being so closely interwoven that my continued silence would somehow start subtly unraveling the thread. And like all writers I scribble in part out of vanity - the desire to set fleeting thoughts of questionable importance to a somewhat less impermanent medium.
Beyond friendship, I have several other connections to this blog. Like Mrs. A-G I too cut my beer drinking teeth on the fabled late nineties high school favorite - Icehouse. Perhaps more significantly, like Mr. A-G I once picked up and was enchanted by Garrett Oliver's The Brewmaster's Table. I found, however, that it was not his passion for beer sommeliership that ultimately captured my attention. It was instead his devotion to the very craft of brewing. The jazz-like combination of ingredients. The science of proportions. The centuries of tradition, almost lost to industrialized America before the Depression Era necessity revived the small independent brewer.
I am thus little concerned with how a beer will taste to the denizens of the modern day foie gras speakeasies of lower Chicago who order a glass to accompany their $40 salad garnished with the force-fed liver of an unfortunate waterfowl. Instead, I relish the pleasure of a cold pint poured on the back porch of a rental house in eastern Goochland county, guzzled with the satisfaction of knowing that there's no cable, no air conditioning, beans and rice for dinner and a pair of $10 mixed six-packs in the refrigerator. It is in that spirit that I hope to review a few of my favorite things on this blog.
In the next issue: A philosphy of beer, and an inaugural review. Until Then.
Well my friends, no longer. And thus, I feel an introduction is in order.
I have decided to write primarily out of my great and abiding affection for this blog's eponymous founder. I write also out of a sense of duty, our histories of beer being so closely interwoven that my continued silence would somehow start subtly unraveling the thread. And like all writers I scribble in part out of vanity - the desire to set fleeting thoughts of questionable importance to a somewhat less impermanent medium.
Beyond friendship, I have several other connections to this blog. Like Mrs. A-G I too cut my beer drinking teeth on the fabled late nineties high school favorite - Icehouse. Perhaps more significantly, like Mr. A-G I once picked up and was enchanted by Garrett Oliver's The Brewmaster's Table. I found, however, that it was not his passion for beer sommeliership that ultimately captured my attention. It was instead his devotion to the very craft of brewing. The jazz-like combination of ingredients. The science of proportions. The centuries of tradition, almost lost to industrialized America before the Depression Era necessity revived the small independent brewer.
I am thus little concerned with how a beer will taste to the denizens of the modern day foie gras speakeasies of lower Chicago who order a glass to accompany their $40 salad garnished with the force-fed liver of an unfortunate waterfowl. Instead, I relish the pleasure of a cold pint poured on the back porch of a rental house in eastern Goochland county, guzzled with the satisfaction of knowing that there's no cable, no air conditioning, beans and rice for dinner and a pair of $10 mixed six-packs in the refrigerator. It is in that spirit that I hope to review a few of my favorite things on this blog.
In the next issue: A philosphy of beer, and an inaugural review. Until Then.
17 April 2008
St. Cecilia Reports...The Latest in Homebrewing, and Some "Greening" Tips
The New Digs.The St. Cecilia Brewery has set up shop in its new venue! I'm quite excited.
Running water is at hand. As is a small countertop for drying and storage.
Plenty of space to stow the empties. And who cares if a mess is made?
The unofficial brewery mascot. And note, at the top of the photo, a hot-plate I purchased at the church rummage sale for $6. Now the entire brewing operation can take place in the basement -- boiling, washing, filling, you name it. No running back and forth to the kitchen.I started the batch on Saturday the 12th. Here's the lineup:
6 lb. Cooper's Light malt extract syrup
1 lb. Northwestern Pilsen Dry Malt extract
2 lb. crushed grain: 75% German Vienna malt, 25% Biscuit malt
1 oz each Cluster, Buillion, and Brewers Gold hops
White Labs Burton Ale yeast.
The ABS wanted to give me California Ale yeast, but I opted for the Burton yeast, hoping for a more classic "English" taste as a result.
I'm pretty excited about the IPA, as is my Hop-head wife.
Although, it's time for a funny anecdote. After pitching the yeast and capping the carboy, I was excited to see the yeast begin to activate (the fancy word for frothy, bubbling, fermenting yeast is Kräusen) much sooner than most of my brews heretofore have experienced -- instead of a day or two, Kräusen was happening within a few hours. I'm not sure whether to attribute that to the cooler temperature of the room, or the temperature of the wort when the yeast was pitched, or the particular combination of ingredients. At any rate, it's been fermenting up a storm. This morning, I just so happened to come into the brewery room in the basement to collect a couple of empty boxes, and discovered that the airlock (which seals off the carboy and keeps the wee beasties out of the brew) had blow clean off the carboy -- the crazy yeast activity had clogged the airlock, and the force of CO2 being expelled from the carboy pushed the clogged airlock clean out of the neck, like a bottle rocket. No harm should come to the brew, I think, because so much CO2 is leaving the carboy that I doubt anything can enter into the batch. I'll have to keep a closer watch from here on out.
I'm also doing what I can to "green up" (or, should I say, "Blue up"??) my brewing process. I haven't yet ordered organic brewing supplies from Seven Bridges Co-Op (saving that for May or June), but there are some other things to be done:
1) Reduction of water use.
We're still suffering an extreme drought in NC. Water use is -- or should be -- a big deal
Instead of immersing all the various equipment in a tub of sanitizer solution, spritz the sanitizer solution and rinse.
Instead of washing bottles in the dishwasher, use the sink faucet bottle-washer adapter, and collect the water in a tub in your sink. Use that water for plant-watering or compost-moistening purposes.
Use greywater (see below) for non-consumable purposes (soaking labels off bottles, etc.)
2) Recycling of materials, particularly water.
Bottles are the obvious ones here (I have not bought new empty bottles since my very first batch in September), but it can go much further than that.
Reuse sanitizer water/solution -- after cleaning the carboy, tubing, etc, use the same sanitizer solution for bottles and such.
Spent grains not only make great compost, but also can be dried and used in homemade breads.
I've even used dried spent grains as a crouton substitute on salads. Dried spent grains are also a big hit in the bird feeder. The hop slugde can go in the compost bin or pile.
I'm also a big fan of taking the wort chiller water to the garden/yard (I do the same thing with the water I soak bottles in to remove the labels -- water which I have collected from my shower in buckets [aka "grey water"]).
NB. If you're worried about glue (or soap) residue from labels making its way into your garden veggies, check into setting up a greywater treatment (a miniature wetland, really -- it's amazing how many beasties get cleaned up just by filtering through root systems!). I don't have one of these things set up yet, but it's on my wish list. I should add that my shower greywater benefits from non-toxic shampoo and soap that I use.
I haven't tried this yet, but I bet I could take the water from my wort chiller (it's just water) and add it to the washing machine next time we do laundry. Or use it for non-dishwasher dishes.
3)Reduction of paper used.
OK, most homebrewers won't even need to worry about this one. However, those like myself who enjoy making labels for their brews must contend with the paper use involved. I've decided, instead of slapping labels (no more than 6 or 9 labels per page, depending on how big they are) on all 50-or-so bottles in each batch, to only print out enough labels per batch for my cellared brews, and maybe a couple that I give away (so one sheet of paper per batch, rather than upwards of 6 -- and with at least one beer brewed per month, those pages add up pretty quick).
At the end of the day, of course, homebrewing is quite sustainable without even trying to be, and without going nuts -- reuse of containers, no distribution to speak of (the petrol used to ship my supplies to me pales in comparison to loading cases of bottles on trucks and sending them all over the country), and no gross cleaning chemicals that most commercial breweries use. I'm sure I'm forgetting some aspects here, also.
Maybe I should look into kegging down the road -- that would be even more minimalist and resource-reducing.
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